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illamasqua sealing gel

15 Feb

Just a wee experiment with this product, which I bought a couple of weeks ago and only today got around to trying out.  It’s been raved about by all and sundry, the new miracle product to mix into your powder eyeshadow to instantly turn it into a high-density liquid liner.

I have been using a similar miracle product for years – called “water” – but I’m always up for trying these things out.

These shots were all taken after about 14 hours of wear and tear, including me intermittently rolling my eyes then squeezing them shut in frustration for 8 hours straight at college.

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oop, let’s see if we can crop that down a bit, less nose, more eyelid.

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and even closer…

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What we have here is MAC eyeshadow powder in Coppering (a daring reddish shade that if applied right, makes blue eyes insanely blue, and if applied even a little too heavy-handedly, makes one look as if one has a scorching case of pink-eye), mixed with a little – and I mean a tiny drop – of Illamasqua Sealing Gel, applied with a flat brush in a thin line, slightly winged out in a flick on the outer corner of the eye.

There’s a bit of Maybelline gel-cream eyeshadow (24 Hour Colour Tattoo in On and On Bronze) on my eyelids, although it’s mostly worn off, and Boots No. 7 brown mascara.

If you can only set aside 10 seconds for eye makeup yet want to look incredibly incredible, get your ring-fingertip into a pot of Maybelline 24 Hour Colour Tattoo and smear it on.  You cannot f_ck it up, I swear.  Shimmery, flattering colours for everyone!  The 24-Hour claim is a bald-faced lie, obviously, but the good news is that you can just pat it back into place if it does travel or crease during the course of the day.  Maybe she’s born with it, or maybe that’s just me and my greasy eyelids.

The MAC Coppering/Illamasqua Sealing Gel is all the way along the top lashline, right down into the inner corner of my eyes, and there it stayed all day, not a smudge or a wrinkle or a fade or a blur in sight.  I’m well impressed, Illamasqua.

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Sealing Gel, welcome to my makeup kit.

Twiggy and Bowie, Chloe and me

11 Feb

From the 1973 album Pin Ups, here is David Bowie posing with Twiggy.

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The face-outline thing reminds me of this:

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which was my bum-chinspiration for this:

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…which was Chloe in costume as this:

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I have always admired Boy George in his twilight years; he just paints over that wattle and expects us all to turn a blind eye.  What double chin?  Oh this ol’ bronzed acre of skin?  That’s a jawline you could shave parmesan on, friends, not a massive turkey gobbler.  Nothing to see here.

Anyway.  Back to Bowie.

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I’ve had my mullet trimmed (although it is not such a dark red as his), I’ve bought a brown contact lens and Chloe and I are both going bra-less today so there are no strap marks on our shoulders.  I’m so ready for this.

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It’s the morning after and I’m editing the photos from the Pin Ups session, and laughing my ass off.  Most of these aren’t fit for publication.  The kind of stuff you don’t want ending up on 9gag.  I’ve got a whole album of oh-god-why, right here.  Let’s see if I can tastefully crop them into something more family friendly.

Basically, the makeup took several hours and 4 litres of Lambrini.  We were both topless, drinking pints of mimosa all afternoon.  My housemates were quite surprised when they came in from their day skiing, but Zoe quickly regained her composure and took the final photos for us.

So here we go.  I don’t have a huge number of progress shots because the camera battery was running low, and I’m also not going to be able to name all the products I used; mostly because there is no point naming the ancient eye-shadows I’ve had for 10+ years that I bought in Australia.

This was my first proper attempt at covering eyebrows; there are a couple of ways you can do it, so I picked the cheaper one – glue stick!  Yes really.  I think I put too many layers on; on Chloe’s eyebrows at least I think one layer might have been enough.  In the YouTube videos I watched they were all going to town with several layers, built up with powder in between.

Anyway, here she is a with a monobrow created with Pritt-stick and Illamasqua Rich Liquid foundation.

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The Illamasqua Rich Liquid foundation was applied around the outside of her face, then all down Chloe’s neck, arms and chest to make her a nice golden-Twiggy colour (and I upped my own palour with Illamasqua Skin Base foundation, in the lightest shade).  The Rich Liquid is the densest coverage formula they’ve got, and it’s DENSE.  It-covers-tattoos-dense.

The face-outline was drawn on with a nude lip-liner, and the white Skin Base foundation went inside the outline.  At this stage, Chloe looked quite like a playing card somehow, so I popped my Red Queen wig on her just quickly, for fun:

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Then came the eyeshadow, which didn’t work out as well as I wanted it to – it was difficult blending the powder over such thick, sticky layers of foundation and dry glue stick.  It was frustrating.

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Finished with a LOT of black mascara, top and bottom, cos that was the way Twiggy rolled.  Light pink sparkly blush low down under the cheekbones and on the temples.  Nude lipliner and gold lipstick.  Blue headscarf.

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Then I did my own makeup.  My makeup is similar to Chloe’s – covered eyebrows, face outlined.  But I am snow white instead of white and tan.  I was wearing a matte taupe eyeshadow and brown mascara, and contact lenses.  I used a matte peach blush on my temples and under my cheekbones.

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And this is what we ended up with:

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What do you think?

I think Chloe pulls a very convincingly beatific Twiggy face there.

What I learned from this session:

– Always put whole afternoons aside for this kind of ambitious undertaking; when you’re flying blind, you need time on your side.  You don’t want to be rushed.

– Really thick, tan makeup looks amazing in photos and ridiculous in real life.

– Covering eyebrows is hard, although the dried glue stick wasn’t as uncomfortable as I thought it would be.  It retained a bit of flexibility so it didn’t flake off or peel up like I assumed it might.

– Teaching yourself can be satisfying and fun, however recently I’m feeling limited by not having the right tools or products, and I’m very aware of the huge gaps in my technical knowledge… and it’s frustrating.  I have the vision but it’s not always enough.

I try to stay positive and channel Kevyn when it’s not going the way I want; even when you’re making a complete dog’s breakfast of it, you’re still learning.

superheroes and villains

9 Feb

Let’s pretend we can save the world.  Save the world with makeup!

My friend Ian, who is big into all things cartoon-ish, had a Marvel Comics/cartoons/villains/heroes themed party for his 30th birthday in 2011.  Everyone made a huge effort and looked amazing – I bloody love a dress up party when everyone gets hard into it.  Ian himself was Superman.  Here’s me as The Red Queen, inspired by Tim Burton’s Alice in Wonderland.

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And at the same party, Alex as Sideshow Bob, Neil as a banana, and Morgan as Cheetara from Thundercats!

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I do love a good painted-on eye mask.  Speaking of which, last but not least, here I am as Australian supervillain ANZAC.  That’s my gimpy manservant Barbara in the background, humping Hostage 1.

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 Maybe I can’t save the world with makeup, but I can rule the world with cookies.  Watch the full video here: ANZAC!!!!!

Chloe’s budgie-eye

5 Feb

To begin, take 1 x sister who wants fancy feature eye makeup for a night at the pub.

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Chloe has very good skin, the lucky so-and-so, however I did still feel the need to use some colour-correcting concealer under her eyes, which can look quite blue.  (Agi calls under-eye bags ‘douche bags’, fun fact for today).

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Using a mini Benefit Realness of Concealness kit, I put the lemon-yellow concealer under Chloe’s eyes from the inside corner, down alongside her nose and back up under the eye again, kind of in a triangle if that makes more sense.  Boots green primer was buffed along her t-zone to correct redness, and Garnier BB cream in Light was used just under the cheekbones as it’s slightly darker than the light MAC tinted moisturiser I used sparingly over the whole face.

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lemon, lime, PURDY!

And now time for the budgerigar-inspired green and yellow smokey eye…

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Using MAC Paintpot in Pharaoh, MAC eyeshadows in Wondergrass and Eyepopping and MAC Pigment in Chartreuse, it’s a standard smokey eye … but green!   Woooo.  The Paintpot creme eyeshadow goes on first to give the powder shadow something to stick to, intensifying its colour.  

The darker powder shadow is in the outer corner of the eye and underneath, and the lighter shadow blended out from the inner corner with the glitter pigment applied on top.  The pigment is messy (or maybe it’s just me), so I press it on carefully so it doesn’t go EVERYWHERE.

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and now for the finishing touches, with MAC Hi-light powder (this is a limited edition one that I bought in Australia about 100 years ago, from the Dame Edna range – check the catseye specs on the front).  I used two types of blush, because two types of a good thing at the same time is the secret to success.  

The two blushes are a MAC matte peachy-apricoty powder blush in Goddess, and a dirt-cheap-but-one-of-my-faves Miss Sporty brand blush (from Superdrug for about a quid, from memory) that’s a very pale and just-sparkly-enough pink.  

Eyebrows filled in with Maybelline eyebrow pencil in Dark Blonde, which is one of the best eyebrow pencils I’ve ever used – waxy, sticks to the hair not the skin, grooms perfectly.  And it’s the right price.  Wink.

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To finish, a bit of black eyeliner on the waterline and under the lashes (Chloe’s favourite part of getting her makeup done – NOT – but she is getting much much better at it).  The best eyeliner I’ve used cost me 50p from Primark.  The colour is INTENSE, it’s really soft and goes on like a dream, and lasts and lasts and lasts.  They have it in brown occasionally as well, and when I come across it, I stock up.  Recommended.  The mascara is Maybelline Colossal Volume in black.

Isn’t she pretty?

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bat bat

3 Feb

“Ermagherd, are they real?”

I get this a lot.  Strangers, friends and members of my own family alike have even reached out, closed them between their finger tips and given them a too-rough tweak to check if they’re the real deal.  And, dear reader, while they might look too good to be true, let me assure you that in all their full, perfectly curved perfection, they’re all mine.

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While a lot of you filthy animals out there will assume that I’m talking about my magnificent rack, may I remind you that this is a makeup blog and I’m talking of course about my eyelashes.  Inherited from my mother, they’re probably my favourite body part.  They’re long, thick and naturally curled.  Maybe they could be a bit darker, which is why we’re here talking about mascara.

If I know one thing, it’s everything about mascara.  So involved am I with my eyelashes that I would say I spend more time lovingly mascara’ing them than I do on any other part of my usual makeup routine.  Putting on mascara is one of my favourite things about being female, and I genuinely believe that you can have a bad-eyelash day.

Some may say that I take eyelashes perhaps a bit too seriously, but they also can’t deny that it’s something I do well, and I am often asked what’s what with mascara.  I have tried a LOT of mascaras in my time.  You wouldn’t probably be reading this blog if you weren’t also interested in makeup, so you’ll probably understand why it is completely reasonable to own and use fifteen different tubes at the one time.  Black, ultra-black, brown, brown-black, blue, green, ‘eggplant’, charcoal, navy, clear.  Waterproof, smudgeproof,  fade-proof, Titanic-proof, all-day, all-night, volumising.  thickening, enhancing, curling, long-lasting, easy-off, fibre-length, nourising-strength.

And that’s before we even approach the bewildering variety of falsies.  You can even get different coloured glue for your false lashes, for crying out loud.

Anyway.  There is a lot that I have to say about mascara, and I think I’ll leave product reviews for another time.  Here’s how I do it.  It’s all just my opinion, and personal preference will mean that not all of this will work for you.  It all depends on what kind of look you’re going for.

1.  Whatever I do to my eyelids, I do that first (eyeshadow, eyeliner etc)

2. Eyeliner (pencil, brown if I’m wearing brown mascara, otherwise black) goes underneath my top lashes.  Your eyes will water to buggery the first time you try it, but with practice you too will soon be scrubbing that pencil back and forth to grind as much pigment into your lash roots as you possibly can.  Why?  It makes your lashes look thicker.  Whether you’re doing it on your own eyes or on someone else, you’re best off going for the softest, meltiest pencil you can.  Pencils with a bit of colour or shimmer in them can add an interesting and subtle accent, too.

3. Mascara time!  All the usual tips about wiggling the brush right into the roots, zig-zagging it up to the tips of your lashes and so on and so forth.  If you’re going to do more than one coat, move quickly – if you let it dry between layers, it’s more likely to crumb and clump.  Remember, you can blink while you do it.  Having your mouth wide open (pref. with your tongue out) is recommended.  To apply mascara to your bottom lashes, narrow your eyes slightly to lift the lashline and make your bottom lashes stick out away from your skin.  When I apply mascara to other people, I get them to lift their chin a bit and look over my shoulder, and always remind them they can blink while you do it.  Their eyes won’t water if they’re allowed to blink.

The first coat of mascara for me is about brushing my lashes forwards.  Mine grow out at a bit of an angle towards my temples, like most people I would guess.  So I brush them forward with the first coat, and if I do a second coat, it’s either smoothing them back out for a winged effect (suits a smokey eye or a feline-flicked eyeliner nicely) or brushing them even more forward for what I tell myself is a wide-eyed, gamine look.

4. Personally I don’t fart about with lash curlers or lash combs, but if I’m putting false eyelashes on someone else I occasionally use a lash comb to blend the natural and false lashes together.  In my opinion lash curlers are overrated, even if your lashes are straight.   That’s cos I like poker-straight, downwards-growing lashes, I think they look cool.  And most falsies only flick up towards the tip anyway, so you don’t actually NEED to curl them if you don’t want to.  But having said that, I’ve seen some pretty impressive things done with lash curlers, so it could just be that I don’t know how to use them properly.  More practice.  Another area for improvement for me would be lash fibres, I haven’t ever really used them and I am curious.

The mascaras I use most often are a brown Boots No 7 mascara, and Maybelline Volume Express Colossal in black – I always come back to Maybelline for mascara, they’re unbeatable for everyday.  Good value, good formula, good brushes.  As I have long eyelashes I like to use the biggest fluffiest brush I can get my hands on, which is becoming less common these days.  A lot of brands seem to dedicate quite a bit of energy to developing these new amazing brushes that prevent clumps and so on, and I do like to try them if I get a chance – but I always prefer to use an ‘old-style’ mascara brush to really get into the roots.

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That’s what I’m talkin’ ’bout.

So that’s my love letter to mascara.  Tell me your thoughts!

men with makeup: David Bowie

1 Feb

If you’re super sleuthy and very observant, you’ll have picked up that I’m a bit of a David Bowie fan. If you need a quick reminder of what there is to love about the guy, check this out quickly.

I could bang on all day about his awe-inspiring, before-his-time approach to entertainment, image, performance, reinvention and alter-ego, but you don’t have all day.  Suffice to say he’s a bitchin’ rockstar from Mars.  People (or Martians) like David Bowie don’t come along all that often.  Lady Gaga is the only one who immediately springs to my mind as anywhere near in the same league of experimental, high-concept creativity.  And let’s face it, she is not shy about displaying his influence on her either.  Come to think of it, she’s got lightning bolt makeup in one of her videos, doesn’t she?

Let’s have a quick perve on his Labyrinth look.  That hair!  That crotch!

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There are a lot of David Bowie ‘looks’ I plan to recreate, but today let’s talk about the one that I sported for a dress-up party in July 2012.  The pub hosts a dress-up party every time it’s Friday the 13th in any month, and they choose a theme and everyone gets right into it.  The theme for this one was ‘hippies’ but I wanted to be David Bowie on his Aladdin Sane album cover, so I just went right ahead and did my own thing.

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Cool, huh?  Here’s how I did it.

1. Watch a handful of tutorial videos on YouTube.

2.  Go!

I used a really pale concealer pretty much all over my face as foundation, which was dense and tight and uncomfortable to wear, and I have since bought an Illamasqua foundation that’s pretty white, which I’ll be using next time I need to go super-pale.  Even paler than I already am, I mean.

One of the instruction videos I watched used sticky-tape to get straight lines, but I found it easier to go freehand  – using a lip brush and pink lipstick for my lightening bolt, and blue cream makeup for the blue accents, I just painted it on in long straight strokes.  Speed and confidence are your secret weapon when it comes to straight lines.  There is gold eyeshadow on my forehead and pink eyeshadow on my eye sockets to set the lipstick and stop it from smearing everywhere.

I had a half-assed go at covering my eyebrows using a gluestick, but this is an area of continued improvement for me.  Haven’t quite nailed the covered-eyebrow yet.

There’s a bit of contouring done at the collarbones, temples, cheekbones, jawline, sides of the nose, chin-bum and above the cupid’s bow/top lip.  For that I used a cheap dark brown bronzer followed by an apricot blush to blend the edges off.  I still wanted the contouring to be quite exaggerated, as in the original David Bowie picture the contrast is quite high.

David Bowie does not have a generous mouth, but it’s more generous than mine so I relocated my lower lipline for the evening with a nude lipliner, and filled in my lips with a beigey-goldy lipstick.

Mullet is stylist’s own.

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Stay tuned for more Bowie album cover re-creations, coming soon.

 

 

 

nailed it: grey on grey skulls

28 Jan

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Sally Hansen Miracle Cure nail strengthening basecoat – I f_ck with my nails a lot and this stuff keeps them going.

2True Fast Dry Colour Quick Nail Polish in Shade 13 – cheap cheap, from Superdrug.

Nail stickers also from Superdrug, also cheap cheap.

Sally Hansen Insta-Dri anti-chip top coat.

It’s been on my nails for about 4 days now and there isn’t a single chip – this is almost unheard of for me, my nails usually don’t last more than 24 hours before they start to show serious signs of wear.  The grey is an unusual choice and a lot of people have commented on it.

Just goes to show that you don’t need to spend a fortune.  British high street is amazing for cheap, good quality makeup.  Which is how I justify buying so much of it 🙂

artists I admire: Kevyn Aucoin

26 Jan

I owned Kevyn’s books, Face Forward and Making Faces, years ago, when I was back in Australia and first becoming obsessed with makeup.  I’d taught myself a lot from practice, trial and error, and reading magazines.  But I was at a stage when I was acutely aware of how much I didn’t know, and I was hungry for more technical knowledge and inspiration.

I can’t remember how I first came across the name Kevyn Aucoin.  Probably at the library.  I would have read every makeup book they had, but I couldn’t tell you now about any of the others.  Kevyn’s were all I needed at the time, and there was a lot I liked about those books.  His philosophy and attitude to life, not just to makeup, came across as incredibly positive, inclusive, open-minded and altogether exciting.  He seemed to see the value and beauty in everyone and everything, and his books generously share all he knows.

These two books have so much in them; incredible transformations, technical tips and tricks that are so well illustrated and explained.  Even though I read these books years ago, so much from their pages has stayed with me.  I remember Kevyn writing something about running a mile if you’re hearing the words “always” and “never” being used in a beauty-facist kind of way.  I like the idea that absolutely anything goes, and being open to all of it will teach you how to do things you wouldn’t have thought of otherwise.  Even if something is a mistake or doesn’t work the way you want it to, in another scenario it’s just the look you’re going for.

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Hell’s bells, he’s only gone and made Gweneth Paltrow look exactly like James Dean.  Nice work, Kev.  That picture first appeared in FaceForward (published in 2000 by Little, Brown & Co.) – does it further blow your mind to know that it took him 15 minutes to create that portrait?

Like me, Kevyn was completely self-taught, and unlike me he was seriously amazing at what he did.  Now I’m at the stage where I’m looking seriously at gaining a qualification, because once again I’m feeling like there’s so much I don’t know I don’t know.  Seriously.

Oh Kevyn, not a day goes by without me putting eyeliner underneath my top lash line, thanks to you.  Try it for yourself; once you get used to it, it’ll revolutionise mascara for you.

I also highly recommend getting on Amazon where you can pick these books up for a song, second hand.  Even though I have copies of them back home in Australia I justified buying them again the other day because they were only a few bucks each.  And I’m falling in love all over again.  As Gena Rowlands says in the foreword of Making Faces (published 1997 by Little, Brown & Co.)…

“There are so many things in the world that you have to face that aren’t so pleasant, that being able to learning something and have a little fun and feel better about yourself, all in the time it takes to get from one page to the next, is a special and wonderful combination.”

men with makeup: Olli Herman

24 Jan

This blog is about makeup, and this photo is of a man wearing quite a bit of makeup.  So the relevance is tenuous, yes, and I’m happy to admit I just wanted to post a photo of me with the lovely Olli Herman, of Finnish glam rock outfit Reckless Love.

That’s us out the front of the Cathouse in Glasgow, after their gig in October 2012.  A lot of people, upon seeing this photo, don’t realise at first that he’s a bloke, but he’s all man in real life, oh yes.  Even with all the fake tan, eyeliner, long blond hair extensions, lip gloss, coconut-scented hairspray, bronzer, false eyelashes, skin-tight velvet trousers etc etc etc.

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A few things you can take away from today’s post:

1. Men in makeup are hot.  There were a lot of screaming women at that gig. Men in makeup are also manly. There were also a lot of rough, tough, tattoo’d, bearded, leather-wearing metal men there who were taking it seriously.

2. Anyone can pull anything off, so you should just wear whatever you want all the time, and don’t worry about what anyone thinks, because it actually doesn’t matter.  Regardless of what you look like, there are always going to be people who think you look good and people who don’t think you look good, but if you like how you look, who gives a shit what anyone else thinks anyway. Go see Reckless Love just quickly for a crash course in confidence; they’re amazing and very, very entertaining.

3. If you want makeup to show up in photos, you really do have to trowel it on.  I thought I’d gone a bit wild on my own eyeliner that night, but next to Olli I look relatively bare-faced!  Haha

Also, you have a right to know that I was wearing a pair of fingerless pleather studded gloves when that photo was taken.  Details are important.

“My style icon is anyone who makes a bloody effort.” – Isabella Blow

Barbie without makeup

22 Jan

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I apologise to whoever owns this image; I pinched it from Twitter then forgot where it came from, so I can’t credit it. Naughty naughty.

Anyway, not that makeup is all about covering yourself up to look better… but there’s something to be said for the magical properties of a bit of brightening-this and soothing-that on the more bloated, blood-shot days, am I right? Barbie knows it.